This is a cake.
Photo: Ivan Angelastro
On a recent Thursday night in Brooklyn, a dark party celebrated dampness, bass, and the women who can achieve bangs. Tattoo artist Anna Williams posed for photos of long-lashed triceps eyeballs for guests, the gigantic projection of a Jell-O mold wobble in the foreground, and friends took turns at the bar waiting for bottles of orange wine.
But the real event was in the middle of the room, where there is a candlelit table displaying several cakes. One is prominent in three layers, is a light blue color, and is decorated with images of assorted butt cheeks pounding on butter cream. Each layer was decorated with pomegranate seeds, gold-coated chocolate rinds that spilled a signature milky jelly, and a half-dozen little cashews frozen forever in time.
“It looks like an altar,” a nearby voyeur commented as we stared at the layered sweets. “Just like we each have to add something to the table, before we sacrifice cake.”
“Won’t you sacrifice what happens to each cake technically?” Another answered.
The occasion was a launch zain cakeAnd the whose first size was intended for erotic sweets. The timing couldn’t be better, as the country’s collective craving for X-rated pastries is nearing its all-time peak. Max Jacobson-Freed, a third-generation partner of Freed’s Bakery in Las Vegas, reports that his most popular cake offering is currently an erect bar made of chocolate-dipped bananas, protruding from a seven-inch round cake ($75, serves ten.). He tells me that in recent months, sales of saucy cakes have risen steadily: His bakery now produces 50 to 65 per week, compared to the 25 to 45 they were making before the pandemic.
Tom Rosa, owner of Cake and Art in Los Angeles, says orders for dirty cakes have risen at least 25 percent since before March 2020. At Blue Ribbon bakery in New Jersey, manager Yesenia Argueta tells me they’ve had nearly twice as many naughty cakes as accustomed to. And at Sweet Cheeks Baking Co in San Diego, owner Elaine Ardizzone says orders for cakes for adults are “more creative than ever,” with one customer recently ordering half a banana and half a bar that “rises from his plate” and flavored like strawberries.
Kinky’s Cupcake, which opened in New York earlier this year.
Photo: Ivan Angelastro
Partly to blame for this is the boom in bachelor and bachelorette parties, a sudden rush of interest, and Rosa says that as soon as pictures of his cakes started going viral on TikTok, he saw a jump in orders to ship cakes around the world. But that’s not the whole story, say observers on both sides of the offset spoon, noting that these NSFW cakes go far beyond classic trunk-shaped party favors and include BDSM birthday cakes, breast-like frosted cakes with nipple holes, and cookies Chocolate chip “Fuck me” in edible neon color with no occasion whatsoever.
“People are horny. They think about sex constantly, and at the same time, there’s a drastic shift away from starving yourself and away from diets,” says Serena Kerrigan, the “Queen of Confidence” who presented an enormous hot pink penis at her 28th birthday party in March. “If you want a rooster cake, you will ask for a rooster cake.”
Rosa told me that he noticed a similar desire for bachanalia among his clients. “A lot of people were sitting at home during COVID saying, ‘When we have our next party, we want it like the Romans used to throw it. Over the past several months, tastes have changed: ‘They always used to have a picture of their friend’s dog on a cake. Now they’re like, “I’m going to get a picture of a butt.”
Another, more positive development, Rosa says, is that many requests have moved away from the porn cakes of the past, dominated by the male gaze. “When Hugh Hefner was alive, every year he would get a boob cake and a dozen roses and give it to his playmate a month. Make sure there was a mole on the right side of the boob,” he says with a sigh.
When August DeWindt and her husband, John DeWindt, opened Kinky’s Dessert Bar in the Lower East Side in February, they wanted to make sure it was a sex-positive space for clients of any gender orientation, race, or gender. Now, crossing the bright pink threshold that separates Kinky’s from Orchard Street, customers pass through twin signs with an oversized bubble line proclaiming “Bite me!” and “Lick me!” Inside, the walls are covered in ancient and contemporary art depicting nudity and sexuality in all its permutations, and upstairs, there is a seating area lit only with neon signs writing seductive messages or identifying intercourse characters. Visitors can enjoy nipple cupcakes or “cinnamon whore” waffles in either “Dicky” or “Va-JayJay” shapes perched atop furniture designed by DeWindt’s mother-in-law with sloppy pictures.
“I saw a neon sign of a thick, nude woman, and I was in love,” says Tatiana Cholot, who took her friend to Kinki on a date earlier in May. “You look at the donuts and you see different races. I was like, ‘This is the place.'”
Claudia, a 28-year-old from the Bronx, has visited Kinki twice since it opened: “My generation and the younger generations haven’t waited,” she says. “There is less stigma. The pandemic has opened the door to talk about what we are afraid of.”
Kinky’s was launched with a selection of cakes, biscuits and waffles. They only started taking orders for sexy, custom cakes last week, yet DeWindts say they’ve already received close to 100 orders.
A customer of Freed’s Bakery who recently bought a $350 oversized cake that needed to be wrapped in multiple boxes, and who only asked to be identified as Allie, speculates that we may have come to a Peak Erotic Cake because society is more open to embracing and celebrating sex. “People spend more time with people Choose Being with,” Allie theorizes, “may feel more comfortable exploring who they are and who they want to be. “
Meanwhile, even though someone could walk into a local bakery and spend $5 for a delicately dissected frozen vagina over a red velvet cupcake, laws escalating age-old threats to Americans’ bodies and sexuality seem to be thrown out of government on a weekly basis. . This is not lost on people who bake cakes.
“With what’s going on in politics, people have had enough of how to monitor the bodies,” says DeWindt.
When I asked Claudia if her visits to Kinki were, in part, an act of resistance, she told me, “It’s just showing the world that this is a normal thing. It’s cupcakes that look like they’re part of your body. It’s liberating. Places like this take the stigma out of talking about them.” .
A full spread of Kinky’s.
Photo: Ivan Angelastro