One of the best pizzerias in northwest Naples opens one in Eugene

About a week before our guide to Eugene’s Best Restaurants was due to be published, I took a special trip down the valley to try a few places I had missed, including the Pizzeria DOP, a pizza truck that didn’t appear at first. Research.

It was a fine day in late June, and I found a Neapolitan pizza truck parked not at its usual spot on Thursday in the Oakshire Brewing, but at the next Civic Square, an amphora-aged winery, wine bar and cooking center sharing a building with dignitaries to brunch the lion and owl spot . There, owner Rocky Masselli and his team were preparing to transport pizza from the truck’s wood-burning oven to a room full of international bartenders in town for an Oregon Wineboard event.

It was a serendipitous encounter (and not just because the former co-owner of Park Avenue Wines, Stacey Gibson, snuck me a glass of Civic’s pét-nat dolcetto, a cherry soda out of a wine that paired perfectly with the pizza). Turns out, Maselli will be spending a lot of time around these parts, with plans to open an entire restaurant in a space hidden behind a white garage door in the back of the Civic Lot this fall.

I don’t write much about Eugene’s restaurants. But with the World Athletics Championships arriving in town next week, we’ve taken it all to Oregon’s second-best dining city, visiting dozens of restaurants to publish the most comprehensive guide to Eugene’s food scene. Maselli is not your typical Eugene cook. Besides being a former chef at Marché (and son-in-law of its pioneering founder, Stephanie Kimmel), Masselli studied traditional pizza-making in Naples and ran kitchens in San Francisco and the critically acclaimed A16 Oakland restaurants. In 2017, he returned to Eugene and Marché, then launched Pizzeria DOP in 2020.

Rocky Masselli scores with his team at Pizzeria DOP, a roving Neapolitan pizza truck that plans to open an entire restaurant later this year.Michael Russell | Oregonian

In the van, Maselli serves both wood-fired pizza and Montara-style pizza. For the latter, the pancakes are slightly fried and then finished in an 800-degree oven. This process gives DOP’s long-fermented dough a comforting quality that compares (positively) to the pies at Pizza Hut, especially when it’s topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, fresh basil, and a drizzle of olive oil in a classic DOP margherita.

This fall, salad pies, fresh pastas, café cocktails, and more will be joined at Osteria DOP, a new restaurant opening into a space behind the garage door at the back of the Civic parking lot. As Masselli tells me of his hopes of adding some tables and chairs in the back of the Civic, the whitewashed dome and bell tower of the First Christian Church in Eugene give the scene a subtle Italianate feel.

Will Osteria DOP be successful? It is too early to tell. Osteria Sfizio, Eugene’s former Italian restaurant, has only been running for two years. But this Montanara-style margarita I tried in June would compare favorably with any Neapolitan pizza you care to mention in the Northwest.

Look out for Osteria DOP opening October 1122 Oak Street in Eugene.

– Michael Russell, [email protected] Tweet embed

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