newly, Jen Agg, a restaurant owner in Toronto tweeted Something so brief and deadly sharp, it was like a sashimi knife straight to the heart. I’ve written a list of what “every restaurant right now” seems to have their menu model, including roasted carrots, beet salad, crudo, and “Casio e Pepe (many variations)”. “Every restaurant” means the culinary chill of 21st century North America, of which we certainly have a large number in the Bay Area.
It seems like you can’t throw in a golden beet in San Francisco without hitting a pasta spot that promises to be different from all the other pasta places, and Eteria is definitely one of them. Out of my head, I can name a few counterpart establishments, both new and not so new, where you can eat pasta and raw fish: Penny Roma, One Fish Raw Bar, Picco, Daytrip, for example. Popular in Italian coastal cities and popularized in the U.S. by Dave Pasternack in the now-closed Esca of New York, Crudo has been a longstanding preoccupation among Bay Area chefs, from Michael Mina to Pearl 6101’s Mel Lopez. Established as a restaurant specializing in handmade pasta and vegetables, Itria excels in its small niche that has been carved for itself in the culinary moment.