TThere were two bags of flour in the middle of the table. It’s Laura, who was teaching me how to make pasta shape stracinate, Loosen the top of the bags, sending puffs of white into the air. Then I suggested that I put my right hand in one bag and my left hand in the other. Enjoying the approach of the lucky dip, I put my hands in an almost silky smooth. that was Grano TeneroOr soft wheat flour, Laura explained, pouring us tea. Meanwhile, my other hand met something completely different, grainy, and sandy– Grano d’OroI noticed it was hard or hard wheat flour, as I raised my hand from the bags. I was familiar with both, but did not study them side by side. two grains, one soft, one hard; One is dusty white and smooth, the other is coarse and sandy yellow. I rubbed both hands on the apron.
The word “pasta” is derived from Latin, which is derived from Greek πάστη (dough), or a mixture of liquid and flour. No flour! The world of pasta includes shapes made from chestnuts, walnuts, rice, broad beans, chickpeas, barley, buckwheat, and cornmeal. However, most shapes are made from one of the wheat flours: Grano TeneroAnd the that They are often ground to a good “00” in Italy, and what you need to make fresh-egg pasta like tagliatelle, lasagna and ravioli; or Grano Duro, The second most cultivated and hardest type of wheat is Muhammad Ali. Yellow in colour, the hardness of durum wheat means that it shatters when milled. It is coarsely ground to produce semolina for couscous, soups, bread and desserts. Grind twice and become flour Simula Remacchinata In Italy, durum wheat semolina flour in the UK, the legally stipulated flour for all forms of dried pasta. Look at any box of pasta in your wardrobe, the ingredients will be two ingredients: durum wheat semolina and water. It’s also the bag you’ll want to put your hand in to make flour and water pasta at home.
That was years ago, but Laura’s Two Bags is still the starting point for pasta flour, not least because the playful method isn’t a bad idea when making pasta, and the kiddy instructions are by far the most succinct. On your largest surface – wood is ideal, but not necessary – make a mountain of 400 grams of durum wheat semolina flour. Next, use your fist to spin the mountain into a wide crater (Caldera Blanca on Lanzarote is a good visual aid here). The proportions are roughly 2:1, so measure out 200 ml of warm water and pour it into the hole. All at once (in this case, prepare for a pinching chase) or little by little. Either way, the pool pile will look hopeless; Too dry or too wet. Have faith and keep pinching, pressing, and collecting the crumbs until you have a rough mass that smells like semolina pudding. Italian recipes rarely give tips for even kneading Sudou e Ben Laforato (“firm and works well”). This is not a bad thing, no matter how successful it was, and remember that you received a cold piece of plasticine or play dough as a child. Odds are you didn’t think or worry; You can simply squeeze, knead and beat the coarse mass with your warm hands until it is soft and pliable enough to shape.
What did you do with the plasticine block? Worms (vermicelli)? Rat tails (cod de topo)? Anneli episodes? Have you pressed dough through a dough maker to make spaghetti or chocolate? Or rolling a block on a rough surface (gnocchi)? Make a canoe with a fingerprint (strascinati), insert a ball with your thumb (cavatelli), or pull the ear out (orecchiette)? Even if you’re a young Peter Lord and are sculpting monsters, there’s a good chance you’ll have made at least four shapes in the process, all in preparation for making pasta.
Another preparation is to make a rope. Cut the dough ball into quarters, put three of them under an inverted bowl so that they do not dry out, and then, using the hollow of the palm of your hand, form a quarter into a rope about 12 mm thick. Now cut a 1 cm block, press your index finger in the middle and pull it towards you, the idea is that it bends or even turns over, and you have Kavato Which means I had surrendered in the lump and made Cavatillo. Another way to make cavatelli is to roll a block on something coarse or coarse – a butter paddle, grater, or basket.
To make orecchiette, which means small ears, use a knife to pull the block into a circle that wraps around the edges, then flip it back, so it looks like an ear or a small cup. Turn on some music, pour yourself a glass of wine or a cup of tea, and make another and another and another.
Of course, flour and water can be rolled through a pasta machine as well, and cut into clean strips or poorly cut lozenges (maltagliati). Also a reassuring idea is that plates of cavatelli, orecchiette, and lasagna can be purchased to break into maltaglitti, also dried. Fresh or fried, the orecchi is great with tomatoes, anchovies and breadcrumbs, the cavatelli with lamb and saffron, while the maltagliate with arugula and pea pesto makes a great lunch.
Orecchiette with tomatoes, anchovies, arugula and potatoes
This is a variation of a recipe from Foggia in Puglia. It’s smart to overcook potatoes and watercress with the pasta, which brings flavor, then crumble enough to wrap around the pasta, and in the case of potatoes, the starch provides softness. Then mix everything with garlic, anchovies and tomatoes.
to equip 10 minutes
cook 15 minutes
1 clove garlic, Peeled and mashed, but left whole
Pinch of red pepper flakes
6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
12-15 cherry tomatoescut in half
3-6 anchovies filletsFilter, as desired
1 large potato (about 250g), peeled and cut into 1cm cubes
500g or 400gm dried orchid (or cavatelli, fusilli or linguine)
150 grams rocketneglected stiff legs
Toasted bread crumbsservice (optional)
In a skillet over low heat, saute garlic and pepper in oil for a few minutes. Raise the heat, add the tomatoes and cook for 10 minutes, pressing with the back of a spoon until they are moist. For the last two minutes, add the anchovies and press with a spoon until it breaks down.
Meanwhile, bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add salt, then potatoes. If using dried pasta, add after two minutes of potatoes and watercress after six minutes; If it’s fresh, add it six minutes later than the potatoes with the watercress.
Once the pasta and potatoes are cooked through, drain them, then flip them into the sauce in the skillet and toss. Serve with a sprinkle of breadcrumbs if you like.
Kasarichi with lamb and saffron
Mutton broth inspired by a recipe from Aquila, the capital of the Abruzzo region in Bianco (White as opposed to red, with tomato) Also includes saffron for a deep and warm flavour. Watch for texture, add more liquid, or cook any excess liquid, if necessary; The end result should be a soft broth with a little rich liquid, and the meat is very tender, and breaks down gently. Pecorino mixed with pasta first is practical, which helps the meat sauce stick. The traditional form is cecatelli (small and canoe-like), but I also like cavatelli, casarecce, fusilli or tagliatelle with this one.
to equip 15 minutes
cook 1 hour 30 minutes
1 onionPeeled and cut into small cubes
1 small carrotPeeled and finely chopped
1 stick of celerysmall cubes
2 bay leaves
1 small dried red pepperfinely chopped
6 tablespoons olive oil
700 gm boneless lambCut into 2cm cubes
Up to 750ml of white wine
1 large pinch of saffronsoaked in 200ml warm water, lamb or light vegetable broth
500g fresh or 400g dry, cavatelli or sicatelli (or fusilli or tagliatelle)
Place the onions, carrots, celery, bay leaf, cayenne pepper, oil, and a pinch of salt in a large, heavy-bottomed skillet, and stir constantly over low heat for seven minutes, until soft.
Raise the heat a little, add the meat and cook, stirring, until brown on all sides. Add another pinch of salt, raise the heat another degree, then add the wine and let it boil for 2 minutes. Add the saffron with the soaking liquid, cover and simmer for an hour and a quarter, stirring occasionally and adding more wine if the mixture seems dry. If there is a lot of liquid at the end, cook uncovered for the last few minutes to reduce. Taste and adjust seasoning.
Near the end of the cooking time, cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water, then drain, flipping into a bowl and sprinkle over a handful of pecorino. Add the sauce, stir well and serve with more pecorino on the side.
Maltagliate with arugula, basil and pesto
Inspired by the classics Pesto alla GenoveseThis pesto (which means “bond sauce”) is delicious. Arugula and basil bring in the herbal heat, while peas add sweetness. I’ve given loads, but it’s really a recipe that calls for improvisation to taste. As always, a little bit of the pasta cooking water helps break up the pesto, so it coats the pasta, while adding a little more milk to the ricotta means it’s easier to put on the spoon.
to equip 10 minutes
cook 10 minutes
1 large bunch of basilplus more to finish
1 rocket packLeaves only, tough stems removed
100 grams of peasBriefly cooked in salted boiling water
20 grams of almonds or pine nuts
1 clove garlic
120-150 ml olive oil
50 gm parmesan cheesegrated
200 gm ricottaMix it with half of the Parmesan cheese and a little milk to make it soft and a spoonful
500gm fresh maltaglitifresh lasagna slices, or 450g dried linguine or tagliatelle
In a food processor or blender, blend the basil, watercress, peas, nuts, garlic, a pinch of salt, and about 60ml of oil to get a rough but consistent paste. Stir in half of the Parmesan cheese and the rest of the oil—slowly, because you may not need it all—until the pesto is the consistency you want, then place half of it in a large, warm bowl.
Meanwhile, cook pasta in salted water well, until done. Using a slotted spoon, lift the pasta into the pesto bowl—the water clinging to it will help loosen the pesto. Put the rest of the pesto sauce on top, then draw it and divide it into four bowls. Top each serving with a piece of ricotta and some basil leaves, and serve.